Swamps, Jazz, and Classism

Frenchman Street, 2025

05/16/25 9:00 PM

This past May I got the chance to visit the City of Dreams as portrayed in Princess and the Frog, and boy did Disney get it right. From the food to the city to the swamp, the energy from New Orleans tells me that anything can happen. There’s color and life thriving in the moist, hot air covering that whole city. I’m excited to share with you the itinerary for my trip, and the observations that I made along the way.

My friend and I lived about ten or twelve blocks northwest of the French Quarter. In hindsight, I would have just paid a little more to stay right in the heart of the French Quarter. The nightlife would have been completely different. But our BnB was adorably out of place in the neighborhood we stayed in. The sidewalks that led from the house to the street ended at the property lines, where dirt, gravel, or grass would meet your soles.

Our BnB

The other side of the street

As we make our way to the French Quarter, far away brass instruments get closer and closer, louder and louder, until suddenly right in your face:

bhwomp bhwomp bu bhwomp

Trombonist

After some beignets at Cafe Du Monde, we walked around downtown, seeing all the museums and getting coerced to give a man 5 dollars for a shoe shine. We saw interesting architecture, and interesting people at work.

Red Umbrella

Lantern Maker

Pink & Green

Double-take, 2025

Love it when people notice my camera and throw me peace signs. This guy threw me one but I decided to pick the moment right after, felt more candid.

Fresh Frozen Lemonade

We had a whole swamp tour in the afternoon. It was beautiful, and I’ll share the iPhone photos that I was able to take without tipping over in my kayak. Saw some gators, saw some Cajun boys in a motorboat, saw a water snake, which apparently is a rare sighting.

Gator pup

Besides the occasional chirp, the bubbling of the swamp, and the wind rustling the leaves, it was dead quiet.

Water Snake

When night fell, the city gets it’s second wind, and this time it’s back and stronger than ever. Every few blocks, the energy changes. Talented musical artists are weaving a musical tapestry together in the French Quarter. My favorites start with this drummer that knew exactly what I was doing.

Look-back

Drumming at The Spotted Cat

No need to wait in line to listen to some music though. Tight across the street, a group of friends are making a groovy tune. We stand by and enjoy it, and for anyone thinking to come to NOLA to enjoy the music, don’t forget to bring your cash! Everyone is feeling the energy, and this homeless veteran dances over, not walk, dance. He’s balancing a cup on his head, and dances with everyone for a little moment before moseying on ahead in his path.

I embarrassingly knocked over a bicycle trying to compose this moment perfectly in a flash. I knew I wanted our veteran friend, I wanted the members of the band, but I also wanted sprinkles of context with the words in the image, and specifically ‘French men all day’, ‘Not a good sign’, and our veteran’s signage. Gotta do whatever it takes to get your feet to that place. The low light was working against me overtime, but our X100V does wonders with the f2.2.

We Be Jazzin’, 2025

The next few days we only travelled twenty blocks or so west, and the vibe is completely different. Really, really nice homes, and an antique store, bridal store, or art gallery every couple of stores. Sidewalks are paved perfectly, and hedges are trimmed. Magazine Street and the Garden District.

A Biker’s Ride, 2025

Once we got to the garden district, the scenery took a turn for the glamorous. Broken down building facades turned more unified in style and quality, but retaining that Louisiana charm. Me and my traveling buddy did a fancy day, dining at the Commander’s Palace, a brunch staple in New Orleans that featured a classic Cajun taste paired with odd decor, apparently brunch is a celebration worthy of balloons every day. The jazz was fantastic, and the dress code was classy. And Frank Sinatra’s ‘That’s Life’ never sounded better.

Live Music at the Commander’s Palace

Just outside and a few blocks down the street, a completely different kind of food experience was awaiting us. Just a man, in the back of his pickup truck, serving brats and links to any passerby lured by the savory stench of his smoke.

Fresh links

Our last stop for the trip was a set course restaurant serving French-Cajun, farm to table food. And by farm, I mean either sourced directly from local Louisiana or straight from the backyard of the restaurant. And here’s what I wrote about it on Instagram regurgitated here because I’m lazy to write another blurb:

"I want to highlight a restaurant I ate at during my trip to New Orleans. This is Chef Chris and his restaurant, Etoile. From the moment I stepped into this house, it was welcoming. Pricey dinners can be posh, but the entire staff welcomed us into the space as if it were our 100th time eating there. We casually toured the gardens outside where they grew all their herbs and small vegetables, walked through the kitchen where they antiqued every single one of their plates, and even met all the people involved in creating the unique menu we had that very night. Each course was inspired by Louisiana but had resonating notes from France and Italy.”

And the following are the flash photos I was welcome to take as a walked around the restaurant which more resembled someone’s home instead of a business establishment.

Chef Chris, Etoile

Etoile’s Entrance

A Chef’s Hanging Uniform

Antique dish collection

Our third course preparations

Like eating straight out of your friend’s kitchen

Deli containers and masking tape

A restaurant’s tiny home garden

And here are the plating pictures that I obnoxiously took, looking like an absolutely tourist, for your enjoyment.

Amuse bouche

Deep fried oyster, green sauce

Duck with blue corn madeleine, genius

Crawfish meatball in a ragu kind of sauce

The best bread of my life

Ratatouille Potato Gratin

Peach sorbet with mint granita

Beef wagyu pastry thing, could not finish this

And with all of my clothes thoroughly soaked with the moisture in the air mixed with my sweat, my belly full of gumbo, and my ears filled with jazz, I bid New Orleans goodbye, and hope to return again someday. Thanks for reading if you got this far.

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The City of Excess